Saturday, April 5, 2008

Gualaceo_04/05/08






This weekend was a destination for the pueblo of Gualaceo, a little more than an hour drive from Cuenca, into the outlying mountains, but actually at a lower altitude, into one of the many valleys. Two stops were made prior to entry into Gualaceo. The first was a brief stop to watch one of the artisanos weave a shawl. We did not spend much time here, but long enough to note the care, skill and great length of time to create beautiful shawls by hand. Apparently, like in many parts, due to the time involved in creation, many of the young choose not to learn the skills of the parents. So, there will be a time to come when there will be none to follow.

Next stop was at an orchid nursery. Orchids are found wild in the mountains of Ecuador, but this venture not only was reproducing native plants, but was also in discovery and creation of hybrids. Not sure if I have my facts correct, but recollection is, depending on the variety, that up to three years could be involved in growth of a plant. They sell worldwide via internet and must do quite well based upon the facility and grounds of the operation. In addition to the nursery itself, was a small fruit orchard and a few parrots, bright and bold. The orchids themselves, that were in bloom, were as expected, beautiful and richly colored. Some had aromas to match. One even had the smell of chocolate. My favorite orchid was the ‘monkey face’.

Next stop was Gualaceo. This visit was on the big market day, and streets were crowded, not only from the locals, turistas as myself, but also many from surrounding towns like Cuenca, to enjoy the delights and make purchases. One of the town’s significant attractions is the clothing it sells, much from artisanos like our first stop. However, we skirted the shops selling such items. First we walked into the food market where all sorts of items were being cooked for the hungry. Though a covered shelter, it was open to the air. I believe this site was the source of the idea for food courts in malls around the US. One could buy carne of all sorts, beef, chicken, pork, fish, and of course, the favorite of Cuenca, cuy. Cuy, is roasted guinea pig. For those with special attachment to the critters, you may want to consider the options you now have. There appears to be a fair amount of meat upon the fat little fellas. I have not yet tasted the delight, but I have promised to find out if they taste like chicken before I return. All the foods are cooked right there in front of you, and meats are for sell, cooked or not. If you wanted to see the whole animal butchered, there they are for inspection. Besides the meat entrees, there are many other items as well, many with corn or potato as primary ingredient as those are staples in all of Ecuador. I myself had an Ecuadoran version of tortilla, which is far more like a pancake than our version of tortilla. And, yes, it was quite tasty. It only lacked maple syrup.

Next stop was the open air market of fresh grown fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. The place was immense and covered the entire block. The place was packed with people shopping for produce. There are fruits here I have never seen, plus virtually every other that I have. First impression is about the huge quantity of produce found here. Much is grown on the nearby farms, others from the coastal area which produces fruits too hard to grow at high altitudes. Bananas are the number one export of Ecuador. The size of the individual fruits in particular is striking, many almost twice the size of what I find at the grocery. Another interest is the vendors. Many, though not all, ladies richly dressed in color. I am told that most are mestizo (mixture of native and Spanish blood) not strictly indigenous peoples. They are very watchful and quite beautiful. A lasting impression is the total color of the place. Fond of color, the mixture of the bright clothing set among the colors of bananas, citrus, roses, corn, and so many others, certainly attracted my wonder and amazement. It is impossible to believe that such an amount could possibly be sold within the weekend. What happens with the rest? No idea, particularly since freshness is essential to the lifestyle I have observed. And, though refrigeration does exist, not much is kept for any length of time.

This is not the first Mercado I have observed since my arrival in Ecuador. All are busy, colorful, some at risk t pickpockets and full of interest. However, this one was a bit more special, perhaps because it was outside and the day had not yet produced rain (though that did come in buckets). I hope the photos give at least a hint.

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