One last excursion in Ecuador. I finished my classes on Wednesday last, and with my remaining days proceeded to two destinations.
The first was to Chimborazo, a volcano which has been inactive for the last few years. It is somewhat isolated and is not hindered in its presence to those below by other peaks competing for attention. The mountain is special, because al cumber (at the peak) it can claim to be the most distant point from the center of the earth, a fact that Everest cannot claim.
I departed Cuenca on Saturday morning for a seven hour bus ride, which was somewhat similar to my first bus experience. There were the frequent stops at unmarked places, contstantly changing the interior presence of people, packages, foods, chickens, all of different colors, kinds and descriptions. I must wonder about the system, as I have no deep understanding before my departure from this country. I am impressed by the creative energy to make a minimal amount of money in this third world nation. At the most popular of stops, the usual occurrence is for vendors to step on the bus selling papas fritas (homemade potato chips), or banana chips, choclo (cooked corn), dulces (sweets), empanadas, and other food items. This is often done while the bus is in motion. After they have made a few centavos, hopefully, they then tap the door behind the driver, depart, and I assume work their way back in the reverse direction doing the same. Of less frequency, is the occasional person who appears at the front center aisle, then gives the most elaborate of speeches or presentations to sell some minor product. I am not developed enough in my Spanish to understand if this is for a ¨cause¨or just a personal salesmanship effort. Perhaps some of both. But, I have observed pitches for herbal medicine, magazines, DVDs, and charitable contributions.
Anyway, my destination was a small crowded city, Riobamba. Part of the mystery to the transportation system is knowing where to start or end. I expected a terminal upon arrival, and as there was none I soon suspected I was leaving Riobamba. Luckily confirmation of my dismay was not too far out, and I was able to catch a taxi for one dollar back to the town and my hotel. There indeed is a terminal, but not one visited by this particular bus.
With the noted correction, I spent the night in Riobamba, then met my guide the next morning. We proceeded to Chimborazo, and with the ability to drive to about 15,000 feet at one of two refugios used by climbers, we left the truck and began a short climb. We made it to the second refugio, which is at approximately 16,500 feet, about 2,000 feet higher than any mountain in Colorado. That still left us short of the 20,000 feet plus peak. Normally it is an eight hour push from this point to the top, usually accomplished on the second day. Of interest is the depth of snow on the mountain, knowing we were not too many miles south of the equator. Fortunately the clouds observed from below did not reach to the top. We left the clouds below and were gifted by the sun and a clear view of the top of this wonderful place.
Afterward we retreated down, and skirted to the western side where my guide´s house is. It sits across the tracks of a train no longer in use. But, the view of the area around was wonderful. This area is farmland, and the beauty of the surrounding fields as they creep up the sides of these mountains was truly pastoral. Unfortunately the clouds, hanging midway around Chimborazo remained, so a full view of the charm was not to be had. But, what I did see and experience is a memory for me.
The next morning was another bus ride. This time I carried the fear of missing another stop. However, my fears were unnecessary and I arrived at a true bus terminal in a town called Banos de Agua Santa. As with every sight I have seen in this country, outside the packed cities, the land is mountainous, but totally green to the tip. Amazing is how the farmers can grow crops on the sides of these wonders. I know some of the grades have to be greater than 45 degrees. No wonder I have only seen two tractors in two months. The land is tilled by hand, or if one is fortunate enough to be technologically advanced, they may have an oxen to dig and turn this fertile area. I do believe that this small country could feed half the world, if a distribution system could be developed. Of course, the developed countries would also have to alter their system of subsidizing agriculture.
The town is wonderful. Very tourism oriented, but I am fortunate to have arrived at a nonpeak time, such as the months of June through August. The town contains a hot springs, very similar to what is in Pagosa, though presented differently. Likewise, there is also a river that runs through. Somewhat bigger than Pagosa, and like almost all towns here in Ecuador, it is built from the center out, creating a square effect, so that to know the town requires a circular walk, starting from center and proceeding out. So much different than in the America I know which is essentially linear, where the towns, at least initially, seem to start and spread out along a main street. Such it is with most small Texas and Colorado towns, at least from my observation.
After enjoying the slowness, the quiet of this town, and its central parks, certainly different than my home base of Cuenca, I enjoyed my stay at my hotel. Next morning, with a guide, we toured one direction into the surrounding mountain valleys via bicycle. Our efforts took us along rivers, and gave us wonderful views of cascadas (waterfalls), seemingly one after another, with wonderful latin names, such as ¨thread of milk¨, the ¨virgin veil¨, and of course, the ultimate, ¨El Diablo¨. We even took one cable crossing over one river, hanging (colgado) over the rapids below, several hundred feet above, only by one tightly wound steel cable. Knowing how much of the country does not do extremely well with maintenance issues, there was a bit of doubt about the reliability of this particular infrastructure. However, it was a bit exciting. This tropical area is certainly a place that one could find inspiration, creative or inspirational. I hope some remains with me as I return home after two months in a different world.
These last few days are a good way to leave. Less hurried, more observation, less contact, but more communion, I am glad to have reserved a few days for myself after the two month duration of instruction. Both have ended well. I have been rewarded with breaking a barrier, personal and social. I no longer need wonder or assume about conditions elsewhere in this world. A wonderful country, beautiful people, for some reason challenged, but surviving.
I will carry thoughts with me, and once settled, perhaps on the plane, maybe I can sort some things out, note my questions, and do something with the gift of these two months. No answers, yet, but this experience has happened, and it must be for some reason. I hope one more blessing comes, in that I discover that reason.
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