Dia del Senor de los Temblores

This Monday was a major day in Cusco, celebration of the day of Senor protector from earthquakes. Almost an all day affair. A beautiful wooden carving of the crucifixion normally maintained in the cathedral in the central plaza is carried to a variety of churchs in the central area of town. Literally thousands observe the slow procession from church to church, beginning in the afternoon. As the crucifixion is carried through the streets, the observers throw billions of beautiful flower petals upon the crucifixion as it moves through the streets. I am not sure the of the flower except it is found in the area obviously and has high meaning to the andean people. This is again one of those strange mixtures of catholic and Incan belief. The ritual is similar to other catholic celebrations, while the image of Christ used in Incan fashion to acknowledge the connection to the mountains and mother earth is definitively tied to the Incan belief. I personally do not know how it is all reconciled. I can only witness to the fact that this day attracts thousands.

That night the procession ends after maybe five hours of movement around the central area of the city, where at least five churchs, massive, historic and beautiful, sit within a two block area. A Canadian friend and I met Elvis on the streets prior to the full gathering of folk in the plaza about two hours before the reappearance of Christ back to home presence in the cathedral. Elvis was trying to attract patrons to one of the balcony restaurants overlooking the plaza. This was a perfect overlook, so we accepted Elvis´invitation as well as his free offer of Pisco sour, the national drink of Peru. We enjoyed a simple meal, pisco sours, and awaited the arrival of the crucifixion. During this time the cathedral and adjacent church bells rang in response to each other. Beautiful the sound of the campanas. Particulary one massive bell in the cathedral bellowed out a beautiful base tone, that brought a tinge of emotion to me at least. Story is that the original clapper was of gold, but because the sound was so enormous it cracked both the bell and the tower wall itself. So, they replaced it with a smaller metallic version. Still, the sound was wonderful.

About eight the sighting came. By now the plaza was filled, standing room only. As the crucifixion moved to the front portal of the cathedral the crowd quieted. Slowly the cross was turned to face the door, but before proceeding up the steps, the men bearing the crucifixion moved to make Christ bow three times. And as faitfully linked, the crowd of believers kneeled. I failed to mention that bomberos, firemen and trucks were parked to the side of the church. When finally the crucifixion was marched back inside, the alarms screamed. Not sure the modern connection here, not really enamored of the use, particularly with the beauty of bells so easily present. But, that is how it was done. As soon as Christ was within, the alarms stopped, the crowd clapped and dispersed. That quick.

But, what a wonderful experience this was for me. Like nothing I have ever seen, nor felt.

Cusco, 2010

¡Aieeee Cuenca! ¡Increible! Que una experiencia positiva this has started to be. This timely place is like no other I have seen, visited, or lived within. Once the heart of the Inca empire it still holds close to that heritage despite the efforts of Spanish conquest and dominion to erase and displace. So instead, Cusco presents a strange, sometimes shameful, sometimes embarassing, mostly wonderful mixture (mezcla) of Inca ans spanish. The Inca language of Quechua is as present as espanol, adding to my confused attempt at learning spanish. Where the spanish came they destroyed virtually every Inca structure in their path. But, what is found in this wonderful place is spanish structure over partially destroyed Inca foundation. It is easily seen where Catholic cathedral or church stuctures rise from the walls of Inca temples. Religion itself has often united the multiple deity worship of the Inca into the Catholic ritual and practice.

It is almost too easy to get lost here. There is a slight patchwork of street placement. However, there are almost as many incoherent, almost invisible, pathways diverting to unknown intersections, many using the very Incan rock roaks laid out between temple sites. Way too narrow for vehicles you have to follow as young Judy Garland walked and sang up that yellow brick road. Not too far fetched an idea either as on Temple of the Sun, its blank walls still visible, once had gold on those walls, that reflected the fullness of the sun down the Avenida del Sol toward another distant and massive defensive structure, Saqsaywaman (pronounced in a drunken drawl as Sexy Woman). If you squint your eyes you can easily imagine the mirrowed rays of gold bouncing off the stone avenue from the temple walls. Of course the spanish took the gold and ran.

People are everywhere, Peruvian and turistica. Even on these strange side streets you often will find a Quechuan woman sitting against the walls weaving some textile creation from llama or alpaca. And, most expectedly wanting to sell her products. I have yet to see any signs of affluence, so all are in constant wait to sell good or service, artwork, craft, shoeshine, food, photo. Some Andeans dress in full cultural attire, bring their youngest also so attired, and even llama or alpaca, themselves often decorated, expecting turisticas to take photos, for a cost of one sol, or about thirty cents. Why not? And, these children´s faces could change the heart of the coldest and most greedy on Wall Street. Certainly memories and photos to have and share.

Since few read this far, I will come back next week with tails of Inca ruins.

I hate graveyards and old pawnshops
For they always bring me tears.
Can´t forgive the way the rob me
Of my childhood souvenirs.

Memories they can´t be boughten
They can´t be won at carnivals for free
Well it took me years to get these souvenirs
And I don´t know how they slipped away from me.
(S. Goodman)

Lima, Peru 2010

Hola mi familia y mis amigos. I am doing my best to renew my blog. Technology here makes it difficult,but we will try. The high-tech infrastructure is weak. Plus, keyboards and other stuff are also different. However, do not give up yet.

My first days have been in Lima. Three days, one and a half too many. Very busy place, many people. Not much color except in the plazas and parks. But, a learning experience still. My hotel, the Bolivar, is and was a historic colonial. Quite nice, except it does have need of repair and maintenance, though the structure itself is beautiful.

I am not much of a museum guy, except, of course for art galleries. And so my disappointment that the one art museum, Museo de Arte, was closed for renovation until April. I have found some art in surprising places, much and most is tied to the Inca tradition in some way. Amazing the detail demonstrated centuries past. Includes the high importance of the shark, bull, owl, puma, condor and snake. Animals are indeed critical to the understanding.

Essentially visited only two places, the central area and one called MiraFlores, which is a section that lies next to the coast. More modern than the central area, upscale, and high dollar. One park named in honor of President Kennedy, another Parque del Amor, which apparently on the weekends fully demonstrates its name. A gigantic stone sculpture of two lovers in grasp and kiss lies within the park. Impressive overlook of the coastline.

Also went to a pre-Inca site, Huaca Pallaca(?). Consisted of pyramid, plazas and outlying buildings. Even though it predates the arrival of the Inca, it still demonstrates amazing ability with structure. They used a form of adobe, with dirt and conch shell, which provided the source for lime. No filler in between the bricks were used. Yet, the structure has withstood numerous earthquakes, even though recent effort to rebuild fallen areas with modernized replica of the adobe have not withstood recent earthquakes. And, we pay rising college costs for skills not able to compete with centuries old abilities? Explain that to me. Anyway, the place was amazing in size. Apparently human sacrifice of young women was an occurrence here. But, before the decapitation they were anesthetized. The burials in the location were reserved for the higher class. The sacerdotes, that is, priests, were buried here. For some reason they were decapitated after death, and a wooden mask was placed where the head once was. Another ritual was the breaking of huge vessels that I could easily hide in, similar to the tradition of some weddings where glasses and plates are smashed. All in all an interesting place.

Back in the central area are numerous beautiful and grand churches. Hard to choose one more beautiful than the next. Totally decorated, showing both the appreciation of art and faith as well as the use of art in developing and demonstrating faith. For me it is too bad, even deplorable, that the modern American church seems (to me) devoid of any connection to art, despite its gift to mankind from a higher power. But, . . . Still these iglesias son muy hermosas. Sculpture and painting in the most impressive demonstration of skill, effort and love. Enjoyed them all.

Did not enjoy the overall stay in Lima too much, though not unhappy with the stay. Just too many. But, lots of activity, particularly after sunset, and the streets filled with people. Too hot for me also, the Colorado Kid. Despite overcast skies I got burned, but I will survive.

I am already in Cusco with my family and have attended the first class. Cusco suits me. In a beautiful valley o.and much more. Will convey more later. Cial