Dia del Senor de los Temblores

This Monday was a major day in Cusco, celebration of the day of Senor protector from earthquakes. Almost an all day affair. A beautiful wooden carving of the crucifixion normally maintained in the cathedral in the central plaza is carried to a variety of churchs in the central area of town. Literally thousands observe the slow procession from church to church, beginning in the afternoon. As the crucifixion is carried through the streets, the observers throw billions of beautiful flower petals upon the crucifixion as it moves through the streets. I am not sure the of the flower except it is found in the area obviously and has high meaning to the andean people. This is again one of those strange mixtures of catholic and Incan belief. The ritual is similar to other catholic celebrations, while the image of Christ used in Incan fashion to acknowledge the connection to the mountains and mother earth is definitively tied to the Incan belief. I personally do not know how it is all reconciled. I can only witness to the fact that this day attracts thousands.

That night the procession ends after maybe five hours of movement around the central area of the city, where at least five churchs, massive, historic and beautiful, sit within a two block area. A Canadian friend and I met Elvis on the streets prior to the full gathering of folk in the plaza about two hours before the reappearance of Christ back to home presence in the cathedral. Elvis was trying to attract patrons to one of the balcony restaurants overlooking the plaza. This was a perfect overlook, so we accepted Elvis´invitation as well as his free offer of Pisco sour, the national drink of Peru. We enjoyed a simple meal, pisco sours, and awaited the arrival of the crucifixion. During this time the cathedral and adjacent church bells rang in response to each other. Beautiful the sound of the campanas. Particulary one massive bell in the cathedral bellowed out a beautiful base tone, that brought a tinge of emotion to me at least. Story is that the original clapper was of gold, but because the sound was so enormous it cracked both the bell and the tower wall itself. So, they replaced it with a smaller metallic version. Still, the sound was wonderful.

About eight the sighting came. By now the plaza was filled, standing room only. As the crucifixion moved to the front portal of the cathedral the crowd quieted. Slowly the cross was turned to face the door, but before proceeding up the steps, the men bearing the crucifixion moved to make Christ bow three times. And as faitfully linked, the crowd of believers kneeled. I failed to mention that bomberos, firemen and trucks were parked to the side of the church. When finally the crucifixion was marched back inside, the alarms screamed. Not sure the modern connection here, not really enamored of the use, particularly with the beauty of bells so easily present. But, that is how it was done. As soon as Christ was within, the alarms stopped, the crowd clapped and dispersed. That quick.

But, what a wonderful experience this was for me. Like nothing I have ever seen, nor felt.