This weekend completed two family excursions. The first was truly a family affair, with two carloads in our caravan, 3 sisters, 2 boyfriends, 2 daughters, one 5-year old and me. Our departure had to be muy temprano in the morning as Bogota disallows use of their inner city highways two days a week based upon license number. Accordingly, Nikolas, one of the boyfriend/drivers won the lottery for that day. So, we had of get out of town before dawn. Our tour would take us through four pueblos.
The first took us to a town in milk and coal region, the two high profile products. The attraction, besides being the initial meeting point of the two carloads, was a beautiful cathedral slightly different in architectural style, the spines of the exterior, being meticulously duplicated with wood at several points of the interior. Very impressive.
Before departure from the area we visited an active monastery, being prepped for Santa Semana, by the young priests in training on this beautiful isolated peaceful spot. The sisters bought some eggs which supposedly have double-sized yerna (egg yolk) which is promising for the faithful.
Next we headed to Chiquinquira, a cathedral also being the attraction. The deficiency of my early weeks in seeing cathedrals is now being overly compensated. The basilica is supposedly modeled after the Vatican, though I cannot testify to that. 500 plus years old, it is beautiful and massive. Inside a mass was being held and I was reluctant to try photos, though there was plenty of other activity inside. Much of this was preparation of the “floats” (there is a more appropriate word) that will be carried on the shoulders in procession on Easter weekend. Each has a powerful expressive modeled image of Christ, depicting the final 13 stages of the last hours as depicted in Matthew. These were being appropriately adorned with flowers for the glorification. I recall the wonderful processions in Cusco last year, which only had the single carriage, so seeing the thirteen must really heighten the impression and impact, though more is not necessarily better.
The significance of this religious capital of Columbia is a painting of La Virgen which, after years of neglect had faded. But, after discovery and devotion by one faithful, it miraculously restored itself to original inspiration. Other miracles have followed.
The third stop was Ra´quira. This is a colorful artisan colony, famous for its clay creations, pots, toys, ornaments, including piggy banks. Other crafts are displayed in the stores lined along the narrow streets toward the plaza, with colorful displays from the balconies. For no other reason than the bright colors set against the stuccoed walls, this pueblo was my favorite stop of the day.
Our final spot was Villa de Leyva. Trying to drive on the original cobblestone streets was a bumpy experience. Unlike other plazas this one is entirely cobbled with a single simple small fountain in the center. No gardened walks here. The plaza, supposedly one of the largest in South America, is surrounded by white stucco wall structures, tiled roofs, creating an interesting visual line. My camera could not get an expansive focal perspective, despite standing as far back as I could. We visited several shops and headed back.
Saturday night brought a changed experience. Normally my nights have been occupied with family and homework. Plus, my apartment headquarters are far from the nightlife of Bogota, which attracts large numbers of university students, somewhat like 6th street in Austin. But, on this cold rainy night, and altogether miserable evening, five of the family took off up a popular mountain road that lifts above the valley below where the city sprawls in a half-moon shape. The winding road rises slowly to where you get magnificent views of Bogota below. Despite the clouds and rain, the lights of the city gave a brilliant reflection of the 8 – 10 million (depending on your source) diverse lives of the capital city.
We stopped along the way for views and tastes from umbrella sheltered vendors, small cafes and discos. I have admiration and amazement for both vendor and patron who ignored the elements for business, refreshment and views. At one of the spots, a small dance floor was available for response to the excessively loud stereo playing rumba, salsa and merinque. The sister influenced me to the floor for instruction. I got a thumbs up from a nearby table for my efforts. Perhaps that will encourage sufficient votes to keep me from being sent home.
I also got to observe my first “chivas”. These are old wooden buses that were once predominantly used throughout Columbia. My travel book says they carried everything, people, products, animals and when there was no more room, the top was loaded. Now they have been colorfully converted to mobile dance halls. Benches align the inside, leaving the center vacant for dance to music and drink. As we passed several in our journey I could see the movement of dancing bodies, crowded together as if on the Transmilinium buses in after-work rush hour, rubbing against each other to the rumba beats and disco lights inside. Maybe an entertainment opportunity for some entrepreneur at home. Certainly it was an indication of the integral importance of Latin beat to the Columbian soul.
Only one week left.
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