Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Sucre, 3/27/12






I have now been in Sucre just over one week, attended class, gained some familiarity with the city and have been included in family activities. This adjustment has progressed smoothly and I am well pleased.

The city is somewhat smaller than I expected, but that is not a negative. It is easy enough to walk to most areas, except for the newer areas on the growing edges. Colonial style architecture is present in the central areas, and per code the inner structures are painted white, and tiled red on the roof. No surprise, many churches rise above the barrios. The consistency and uniformity of style presents a coordinated and agreeable picture, without conflicting image.

The central plaza and park draws a crowd to sit on the benches in the shaded cover, to watch the children chase the pigeons, read the paper or talk to friends. There is another slightly larger park, Park de Bolivar, not to far away, but for some reason attracts fewer people, other than the young lovers. The vendors in both do a reasonable trade, as eating is certainly a part of the lifestyle. One new appearance were rows of foosball tables. I am not sure if there is a challenge system, but all tables were occupado. The game lives on.

As noted, vendors are almost on every street of any commercial presence. Generally streets specialize, with certain similar goods found on the same streets, and other streets offering different wares. I needed sunglasses for the intense sun at this higher altitude. I found a pair of Ray Ban, metal frames, for about six dollars. Hey, that is what the tag said!

Visits so far have been to the cemetary, a beautifully shaded and flowering garden among the mausoleums for the haves, and the graves for the have nots. The city lies in a valley, so another walk took me to a Mirado overlooking the red roofs below.

My family has been wonderful. In eight days of home stay I have been included in one birthday, the celebration of Dia de Padre (father´s day) and this Saturday attended a family gathering at the Hacienda of family friends. Alas, I failed to carry my camera. For anyone who has seen an episode of some novella on Univision, you may imagine the scene. There was a beautiful large spanish home, complete with swimming pool, squaking parrot, tortuga on the lawn, outside covered kitchen and patio, overlooking a river below. Among the activities we gathered apples, limes, peaches, and tangerines from the orchard. Surrounding all were fields of corn, papa and alfa.

Having some free time to wander I found a shady spot over the river, to observe the countryside, the hills beyond, including a passing train in the distance returning to Sucre. I watched two young boys swordfighting with cane poles, while the four cows they were tending grazed on the banks of the river on the other side. A small waterfall was visible slightly up river. What a peaceful spot, for observation, contemplation, meditation, and review. I later offered to buy a vacated casita nearby, but was told I was welcome anytime, and needed no purchase. It certainly was a place of peace.

The gathering itself was entertaining. These latin groupings of family and friends always bring excited and interactive conversation. I could not understand even half, but just being a part of the animated discussions made the afternoon and evening a top memory for such an early entrant on my travel. Add the food and pisco sours and Bolivian wine ( try Kohlberg if you can find it) and the memory intensifies. I look forward hopefully to more in the weeks to come.

Still you argue for an option
Still you angle for your case
Like you would ignore a burning bush
If it blew up in your face
Now we scheme about the future
And we dream about the past
When just a simple reaching out
Might build a bridge that lasts.
J.Hiatt

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