cajas 03/30/08

This weekend brought the enjoyment of hiking in the Cajas Nacional Park The park is near Cuenca in the mountains to the east of the city. It is administered differently than others due to its importance to Cuenca. Its watershed accounts for 70 percent of Cuenca’s water supply. As a result, management of the park, despite its “National” classification is the responsibility of Cuenca. As best I can tell, from discussion with the guide, is that this is a good thing. Cuenca has more rangers and personnel assigned to this park, even though others may be larger in area.

Departure was in the morning and we drove up from and out of the city into the surrounding mountains. The further from the city, the more the area turned to agriculture and I could see clearly for the first time, the mountains which have almost always been hidden by clouds. People were already walking the roads, or waiting for one of the many buses that travel the roads. Not sure the percentages, but many, if not most, of the people rely on public transportation it appears. I was feeling good as we moved into el campo, the country.

One of the first spots pointed to by the guide, Juan, was a pilgrimage site outside the park. Story told, is that a 16 year-old had a visit from the Virgin Mary, and was given instruction on where a spot was to be selected for prayer and worship. This was the spot selected. Soon thereafter, literally hundreds of thousands of people came to the site. Miracles occurred. Prior to that time, the road here was minimal, and unpaved. Due to the enormity of the attraction, the road to Cajas was constructed and paved. Busloads of people continue their journey to the site, despite the vision not being officially recognized by the catholic hierarchy.

Soon thereafter we made entry, paid our fee, and proceeded to the Continental Divide, separating flow of waters in the Cajas to the Pacific or Atlantic. If you check out a map of South America, and carefully look, it will be noted that the straight line from here to the Pacific is less than 100 miles, and the distance to the Atlantic is the furthest of all points in South America. Waters to the east flow into the Amazon. While here saw a few wild llama, then we headed back down to begin a hike.

There are hundreds of lakes that step stone down the valleys, each collecting rainwater, spilling down into another below, as they escalade to one of the many rivers fed by the rains here. We parked above a larger one and begin our slosh. Overcast and threatening as near most all my days here in the wettest season of the year, the ground was saturated. The area is thoroughly green, and where mud was not, was groundcover, perhaps lichen, that was like sponge when walking. Juan pointed out numerous plant species, many flowering. Very much, in a sense, like the Colorado mountains, differing of course for the most part by species, plus the completeness of plant coverage. There was even a species of lupine, similar to those found in Texas and Colorado. In the distance, to the south we could see parts of the Incan trail, once used by those people for trade routes between the coastal and sierra areas.

The views from our position when the clouds occasionally gave opportunity were beautiful as expected. Unlike the Rockies, for the most part, the mountains are not rugged, rather rounded, somewhat smooth. At our altitude forest presence was minimal. Some yes, but not thoroughly covered. But, there were some that are referenced as hanging forests, due to their appearance to “hang” from the sides of the mountains. About half way around the lake we entered one. Bosque de Polylepis, the trees are also called “paper trees”. Not due to their use for making paper, but instead, due to their bark, which peels off in layers almost as thin as paper. More inspiring to me was their rich red color and the sheer density of the forest. Each trunk twists around others or rock to seek the richness and warmth of the sun, for underneath the canopy there is no sun. My camera switched to flash mode, as an indication of the darkness. I easily concluded this was the home of elves and trolls and others. Could have been the home of hobits even. We were fortunate. Though a light rain came and went, for the most part, we avoided encounters with cloud cover and fog. There is an American student in the area who to date has been missing for six days. Apparently was slightly behind the group, a cloud came upon them, then when cover cleared, he was gone.

But, the trolls did not get us, and we reentered open space, made our way back down and around the lake and returned to the van. Next spot was for lunch at Los Dos Chorreas, two waterfalls. I had grilled trucha, i.e. trout, which was wonderful. The Ecuador favorite, Pilsner cerveza, was a nice addition.

Our final excursion was lower down, also near a lake used for bird watching. We walked again through tree cover, but not quite as dense as the previous bosque. I spied one beautifully colored bird, but was slow with the camera. Not a toucan, but equally large and covered with color. In the area one often receives visit of “ghost clouds”. These are puffs of small clouds, that magically and instantly appear, move quietly across, then as quickly disappear. Sure enough, saw a couple. Don’t know the scientific explanation, but assume some temperature and humidity contrasts between the plants and the air. The first I saw looked as if a plant was exhaling its warm breath into a cold autumn air. Poof, then gone.

The lake was beautiful, tranquil. We were too late in the afternoon to benefit from bird sightings, but we did get descriptive explanation of the difference between alpaca, llama, and the crossbreed from several grazing in a field next to the lake. Advice is to get alpaca wool as first choice. Also, inspected the ruins of an old abandoned brewery, which must have been one heck of an operation in its time, by the size and number of buildings. Water source would be from the pure waters of the Caja. I wonder how Coors would stack up in comparison.

Returned safely to the van, awarded by the beauty of Cajas and new discoveries. Got back to Cuenca, fingers often gripped tightly, due to Juan’s driving efforts to pass slower vehicles on the mountain road. But, otherwise a good day indeed.

Ingapirca 03/22/08

Today was a trip to Ingapirka, which is an Incan ruin perhaps two hours drive from Cuenca. It was an all day adventure, with stops in towns, at the site, and for lunch. Pablo, the guide, did his best to make highlights to a mixed group from Germany, Switzerland, Argentina, and me alone representing the old USA. I was a bit disappointed with my group for the first half of the trip, as noone but I had questions about the interests, particularly Ingapirka. At that, I would have asked even more, but had to back off to a degree due to studied efforts of Pablo to speak English.

First, the description of Ingapirka. To some extent less than I anticipated, due to a smaller size than I erroneously presumed. Comparison to such places as Mesa Verde and Chaco Canyon, with the vastness of the territory they occupy, is unfair. This site covered not much more than a few football fields. Despite the smallness of size it still drew my interest. Only the footing of the walls remain, or have been restored. However, one small representation of the character of a room had been created. Comparison to the building structure and style of the anasazi of Southwest US showed large differences, even to my ignorant understanding and knowledge. For one, is the use of stone, much from the area, some perhaps from areas as far as Peru. The size of many is massive. Since the time preceded the Spanish, the only means of transport was with manual effort. Daunting.

I did not catch clearly the explanation, so I may be way off, but I believe that part was constructed by the Canari, who preceded the Inca in the area. Style changes were obvious. The most impressive was the later structure added by the Incans. Again, massive rocks, almost perfectly cut, squared and laid upon each other in overlapping patterns, with the outside smoothness of ceramic. Explanation of cutting technique was placement in fire, intensely heated, then incised by cold water. Hard for me to imagine. The rooms were also much taller than even I would need. Not sure why.

The placement of this wonderful ruin is in the highlands area. A tremendously beautiful place to which for the first time in my two weeks I was given sunshine for longer than a glimpse. This being the rainy season the area is totally green. Beautiful valleys, muchos rios, and rounded mountains surrounded, and easily viewed for miles from the ruin’s perch. Sometime in the 60s, Ecuador made decision to split all large farms, and redistribute the property to far greater numbers. The result is small farms spotted on every mountain, from the lowest valley bottom, to the highest points above. I wonder if special attention is given to farmer at the top. The farms are mostly given to corn and potatoes, or grazing for the dairy cows, pigs, and sheep, that were chained to their eating assignments. No fences used here for the most part, and the occasional livestock on the road gave cause to slow down driving speed.

The roads are also numerously occupied by people walking, or those waiting for a bus ride. I do not know the heritage, or the mix, but people of all kinds, certainly many of indigenous heritage. Colorful skirts, shawls, hats, worn by woman and man. Others of different tribe, different approach, but all together, on country road, in town square and market. A true mix of color and kind.

The setting truly pastoral. Or, with an often used Spanish word, tranquil. From Incapirca, farms surround, and touch the border of this historic site. Only an imaginary line divides. Certainly a different style of protection to national wonders. Not sure how the farmers survive with such small plots, all farmed by hand, not one tractor have I yet seen. In fact, an issue here is the immigration of people in this area to the US and Europe, leaving the area behind, to make some degree of income elsewhere, then send money back, or return with enough to get ahead. The area is full of new home construction, which I am told is almost totally due to the return of money earned abroad. The impression I receive is, with the exception of the individuals involved, that it negates the intent of the land split and is a significant problem for the area, and the country itself. New York City is the third largest city in Ecuador, a fact often told, as NYC has over one million residents of Ecuadorian heritage, whereas Cuenca, behind Quito and Guayaquil, only holds half that.

From a subjective, naïve, way of observation, however, the place is a refuge, from traffic, noise, crowds, and the craziness of too many people, trying to do too many things, in too little time. The grass is green here, and not greener on the other side, as again, there are no fences. Demarcation lies where one corn field stops, and the tethered cows graze. A quilt of shaded green patches, laid over the gently rounded mountains, save where quakes or water laden slides have moved tons of rock and dirt. From any patch, one could sit, watch the neighbor in their agronomic effort, or wonder at the clouds as they roll up from river valleys along the continental divide, or rise above the fields as if a series of grass fires had been started to remove stalk stubble. But, obviously, the people are poor. So, the setting belies the hardness of the life that exits for these mountain folks.

A good day in the sun.

Town of Çuenca, 03/18/08

A bit of description for the town of Cuenca. I have now been here over one week and have had some degree of interaction and exploration. The town is indeed special, albeit a bit confusing and contradictory, with many contrasts within itself. There are really two towns, the old historical El Centro, and the new Cuenca. The southside, which I traverse daily between my house in the new Cuenca, and the school, in the old town, is bordered by the Tomebamba River. The river is flowing roughly and rafting on the rapids is offered in April as more rain comes at the peak of the rainy season. I cannot currently identify the other borders, except to say that when one leaves cobblestone streets and sets foot on asfalta (asphault), you have left the old. The old historical district is totally cobblestone. I can imagine the expense for maintenance to shocks, alignment, brakes and such.

The town is sparkled with churches, some within a stone throw of each other, all beautiful in architectural wonder. Within each, and I have peaked inside several already, are art and craft masterpieces. Beautiful altars, most with excellent carvings of Jesús on the cross, various religious paintings surrounding the walls, often decorated ceilings. Thankfully the climate here is relatively consistent and mild. The spacious areas inside would otherwise consume the donations of its patrons for temperature control. Most are open during the day, and seldom is the sanctuary vacant. Each church exists in separation to serve a different bario, a unique neighborhood with its own variation in Cuencan custom and religious alignment. The town is hugely catholic, though in the last 20 to 40 years other religions have made a presence. Though not catholic myself, I have attended two services with my family. I am impressed by the acceptance of all levels and the dedication to the tradition.

Other architecture in the old town is old World, stucco type exterior walls mostly, iron balcones, some with heavy wooden doors. Reminders of the French Quarter in New Orleáns. I am in process of understanding the commercial ventures. Few stores are any larger than living rooms in our homes. Some no bigger than a walk-in closet. It appears that shoes, knock offs, and pirated CDs are the big interest here. I was surprised to discover that Reebok makes a fine Italian line of black leáther dress shoes. Guessing only, but those two products together seem to amount for half of the businesses. The remainder devote to other clothing, electronics, panderias (bread and pastries), and convenience store types, Internet cafes, and cafes. There are many tiny tiny convenience stores, you could operate from your car. There are also numerous vendor carts with candy and a few more things. Small inventories, many competing with another only a few feet away. Many vendors operate behind an iron gate, and you slip money and goods between bars. Almost all businesses pull down ´garage doors´ when they close, similar to shopping mall stores when they close. Petty theft is an issue here, and I assume this is one way of protection. The second is the large quantity of armed guards, policia, and military that are found throughout the city. Not to be too offensive, but memories of Barnie of Mayberry and Boss Hogg´s posse come to mind. Warnings of how to safeguard your goods from pickpockets and common theft are frequently given. I have met two fellow travelers that have been victims, but in Quito, not here.

The town is full of people throughout the day and evening. The town is between 350,000 and 400,000 inhabitants, in an area not bigger than Pagosa Springs. Where people fit themselves is a secret to me, though from the use of building space I must complement the people for their efficiency. Only a few buildings rise above three stories, and these, except for the church towers, are in the new sectors. There is more than adequate supply of labor for construction, and high technology use for building does not appear necessary. I pass the current building of a five story apartment on my way to class. I have paused to watch the laborers pass cinder blocks by hand from the ground level to the top, just like the stars of western movies passing the water buckets to put out the fire in the barn.

Despite traffic it is obvious that most people walk. The streets are crowded, and the sidewalks way too small to allow three bodies to pass. Brushing against each other is just part of being here. One strangeness to me is the total lack, total, of eye contact. I have had sufficient experiences in large cities, all over, and have not seen disinterest to this extreme. Not sure why. On the other hand, when contact is necessary for business matters and so forth, particularly with my instructors and family, there is nothing but the ultimate in friendliness. The people on the street are all kinds. Business suits, student uniforms, indigenous heritances colorfully dressed and topped with the panama hat, an export of the city. I feel like a giant here. Exceptions, but generally I am taller than all around me. Many are lucky to top five feet. On the other hand, today was the first time I have seen an overweight person and the only one. So, a fair tradeoff it seems.

As evidenced by the markets and my personal experience with my family, freshness is supreme here. Few packages or processed foods found here. I wandered into one of the largest mercados, 10 de Agosto (many places and streets are named after famous dates), that would make Central Market or Whole Foods look like a convenience store. It is huge. Foods of all sorts and many, stacks upon stacks. Fruits and vegetables seemingly in the hundreds, grains, herbs (for food and medicine), a few living animals, and just about any part of a dead animal you could want as well. I think this is where the Godfather got the horse head. Cows, pigs, heads hang clearly for inspection. I could go on. I subsequently found out it also is a great place for the professional pickpocket.

The city is certainly interesting and more remains to be discovered. It appears I have time, and perhaps more will be written later.

March 10, 2008

Okay, I am alive indeed and all is well. Some minor problemas, such as late flight arrival (3:00 AM) in a coastal barroom town of 3 million, and a hotel reservation that was lost, but they have been handled well enough. I am very immersed. I have had hardly a single minute to myself since I have arrived in Cuenca. Much to say from my observations, but I must skip much as my computer use is very uncertain. First limitation is time itself, second is access, and third is trying to learn how to use a computer in the southern half of the world. Keys do not work the same. I have yet to find the delete sign, and forget about spell check. I have not yet figured out how to input the ´at´ sign, so I may never get to read an email again while here. Needless to say, all the icons and indicators are in Spanish. I only hope I am saving this to the flashdrive.

I will skip description of Guayaquil, (but I will try and load photos to this sight) my initial arrival port. It deserves a separate book in itself. Instead I will go to Cuenca, my home for next two months. As noted, since my arrival on Friday night at 3:00 in the morning, three hours late, I have been with Spanish speakers almost every hour, excepting bedtime and shower of course. Thankfully my family waited for my late plane and did not give up on me. A beautiful family, Jorge, Sara, Maria Dolores at home, Monica, her husband, and ninos, Nicolas and Domenica outside. I have been fed so much I may get sick because of the volume, not the quality, which has been wonderful. I have had more fresh juices for meals than I knew there were fruits on the planet, and all freshly (fresca) made. No concentrates here. And complete meal, muchos platos. (many courses) I have been guided by hand to a tour of the city and surrounding area, given both direction and warning.

Of the city, what a joy. Much like Pagosa in setting, high in the mountains with a beautiful river through it, the Tomebamba. Climate is nearly the same as well, cool mornings, warm afternoons, excepting rain, which is often. However, the town is 400,000 personas, very packed. Riches and poverty intermixed without zoning laws. It seems people are everywhere, but in a pleasant way. Austin and its use of condos could take great lessons here. Transportation is a real sport. I have been told to avoid the busses, as not very professional. Indeed they seem to be looking for bodies. Only use approved yellow taxes, a ride through town, one dollar. However, most of my travels will be by foot. All transportation is risky. Everyone for themselves. No pedestrian rights here, few signals and signs ignored. As a walker, look for an opening and run. My advice, chase the rear bumper and by the time you get there the car will be gone and you will be half way there. That assumes there is not another behind. When there are lane makers, and very few exist, they mean nothing. Cars jockey for spots. Muchos pitos, that is, horns are a constant. Best I can tell is if there is any suggestion that someone in front or beside will impede your progress then honk. And, frequently honk just for the heck of it. So far, no bruises though. I wonder how the many children of the city make it to adulthood. I need to find out how many schools there are here and how the system works. All dress in uniforms, I assume each color is a different school. And there are many.

Churches everywhere and all beautiful. I attended a modern day catolica service for my first time with the family, and it rocked. Course I understood nada, though I could understand the written scripture of the program, a passage from Juan (John). But, churches are everywhere and I could consume two hundred photos of churches alone. If it is built, it will be a beautiful structure. Quite obviously the church is a central pride of the people.

The people are so interesting and beautiful. And animate. The men exressive with their hands and the ladies with their faces. You can guess the tone without one word understood. Very touching too. Arm in arm, very common. Even men arms around shoulders. For a guy who only found hugging comfortable near age of 50, getting used to the cheek to cheek greeting of woman to woman, woman to man, and child to all, will take time. Both greeting and departure. But, just a sign of the friendliness. And, despite the traffic, it seems everyone walks. The streets have people upon them from dawn to who knows how late. Works for me.

Must stop. Hope to find better access later and will try to find át´sign. Also, will make first attempt to load photos. Fingers crossed. Well I have tried to load photos. I think I succeeded with only one. I will need help. Maybe another time for photos, I hope.