Ingapirca 03/22/08

Today was a trip to Ingapirka, which is an Incan ruin perhaps two hours drive from Cuenca. It was an all day adventure, with stops in towns, at the site, and for lunch. Pablo, the guide, did his best to make highlights to a mixed group from Germany, Switzerland, Argentina, and me alone representing the old USA. I was a bit disappointed with my group for the first half of the trip, as noone but I had questions about the interests, particularly Ingapirka. At that, I would have asked even more, but had to back off to a degree due to studied efforts of Pablo to speak English.

First, the description of Ingapirka. To some extent less than I anticipated, due to a smaller size than I erroneously presumed. Comparison to such places as Mesa Verde and Chaco Canyon, with the vastness of the territory they occupy, is unfair. This site covered not much more than a few football fields. Despite the smallness of size it still drew my interest. Only the footing of the walls remain, or have been restored. However, one small representation of the character of a room had been created. Comparison to the building structure and style of the anasazi of Southwest US showed large differences, even to my ignorant understanding and knowledge. For one, is the use of stone, much from the area, some perhaps from areas as far as Peru. The size of many is massive. Since the time preceded the Spanish, the only means of transport was with manual effort. Daunting.

I did not catch clearly the explanation, so I may be way off, but I believe that part was constructed by the Canari, who preceded the Inca in the area. Style changes were obvious. The most impressive was the later structure added by the Incans. Again, massive rocks, almost perfectly cut, squared and laid upon each other in overlapping patterns, with the outside smoothness of ceramic. Explanation of cutting technique was placement in fire, intensely heated, then incised by cold water. Hard for me to imagine. The rooms were also much taller than even I would need. Not sure why.

The placement of this wonderful ruin is in the highlands area. A tremendously beautiful place to which for the first time in my two weeks I was given sunshine for longer than a glimpse. This being the rainy season the area is totally green. Beautiful valleys, muchos rios, and rounded mountains surrounded, and easily viewed for miles from the ruin’s perch. Sometime in the 60s, Ecuador made decision to split all large farms, and redistribute the property to far greater numbers. The result is small farms spotted on every mountain, from the lowest valley bottom, to the highest points above. I wonder if special attention is given to farmer at the top. The farms are mostly given to corn and potatoes, or grazing for the dairy cows, pigs, and sheep, that were chained to their eating assignments. No fences used here for the most part, and the occasional livestock on the road gave cause to slow down driving speed.

The roads are also numerously occupied by people walking, or those waiting for a bus ride. I do not know the heritage, or the mix, but people of all kinds, certainly many of indigenous heritage. Colorful skirts, shawls, hats, worn by woman and man. Others of different tribe, different approach, but all together, on country road, in town square and market. A true mix of color and kind.

The setting truly pastoral. Or, with an often used Spanish word, tranquil. From Incapirca, farms surround, and touch the border of this historic site. Only an imaginary line divides. Certainly a different style of protection to national wonders. Not sure how the farmers survive with such small plots, all farmed by hand, not one tractor have I yet seen. In fact, an issue here is the immigration of people in this area to the US and Europe, leaving the area behind, to make some degree of income elsewhere, then send money back, or return with enough to get ahead. The area is full of new home construction, which I am told is almost totally due to the return of money earned abroad. The impression I receive is, with the exception of the individuals involved, that it negates the intent of the land split and is a significant problem for the area, and the country itself. New York City is the third largest city in Ecuador, a fact often told, as NYC has over one million residents of Ecuadorian heritage, whereas Cuenca, behind Quito and Guayaquil, only holds half that.

From a subjective, naïve, way of observation, however, the place is a refuge, from traffic, noise, crowds, and the craziness of too many people, trying to do too many things, in too little time. The grass is green here, and not greener on the other side, as again, there are no fences. Demarcation lies where one corn field stops, and the tethered cows graze. A quilt of shaded green patches, laid over the gently rounded mountains, save where quakes or water laden slides have moved tons of rock and dirt. From any patch, one could sit, watch the neighbor in their agronomic effort, or wonder at the clouds as they roll up from river valleys along the continental divide, or rise above the fields as if a series of grass fires had been started to remove stalk stubble. But, obviously, the people are poor. So, the setting belies the hardness of the life that exits for these mountain folks.

A good day in the sun.