Titicaca, 2010

Well a good feeling this morning (Sunday). The greatest peace and calm I have had since arrival, now marking the half-way point. I have had other moments, but not equal. The weekend travel did not start with such positive inclination. A 10:00 PM bus departure in Friday night rain, with targeted arrival at 5:00 AM Saturday. Since I do not sleep on plane or bus my anticipation was not great. But, arrival was on time and three hours later I was on a tour bus on Lake Titicaca, highest navigable lake in the world, and second largest in S.America. It is over 50 miles wide at some points. The lake besides its immensity is quite clean, and taking a horizon viewpoint, its blueness merges into a mirrowed shade from the sister sky.

The first stop was to the floating islands of Unos. Very interesting. These man-made islands were originally created centuries ago as a means of escaping and avoiding enemies. Constructed from the rooted mats of reeds that grow in the lake. These are cut in the shape of large spongy blocks. Then the reed shoots are layered criss-cross on top creating a mattress far more solid than I anticipated. Until waves are created by other passing tourist boats there is not much sensation of undulation at all. One-room solar powered homes are constructed of reeds as well, light, efficient and lightweight. They can easily be lifted and moved, a requirement as the islands decay about every 15 years and new ones have to be built. The islands themselves are easily anchored or moved. In fact often several islands are towed together to create a soccer field. The place was interesting but a bit like Disneyland with an appearance that all activity, native dress, dance, etc. Was geared to creating a fantasy world for the tourists. Still, these people otherwise have lived in the same style for centuries.

Next stop to Amantani, a natural island, which was to be our one night stay. The group was divided and “fostered” to a Quechuan families. Myself and two dentists from Norway (I was the interpreter) were adopted by a wonderful three member family. Madre Irma, Padre Javiar, hija Nadie. Irma in particular has this smile that immediately brings the sensation of Inca heritage, simple, pure, connected to earth, sky, sun, moon. Neither shy nor assertive, she included us in the meal preparation.

Those on the island are for the most part self-sufficient, and a barter system paired with a communcal sharing of responsibility and productivity from quilted fileds dating to pre-Inca cultivation seems to work. But, the tourism, plus craftwork sales, definitely assists their survival. Still primitive, however, as our kitchen was a dirt floor, with a wood fire filling the cocina with smoke.
Incan history states that the first man arose from these waters of Lake Titicaca. Two temples, to the sun, to the moon, overlook the terraced fields. The overlook from these temples, above these terrazos, with more islands arising from the lake just as that first man, is breathless. Of course, being above 12,000 feet could account for part of that.

We had a fiesta night of folkdance and Andean music. Sleep was welcome afterward. I made up for the bus ride under several layers of aplacan wool blankets. I was as snug as the babies strapped to the backs of Quechuan mothers. I see now why these babies never seem interested in crying for attention. Movement is near impossible.
I awoke to birds and burros braying, among the many tended gardends of the communal village of Colquecachiman. There are ten communal villages on the island, mine one of the smallest. During the night I met my need for el bano (no indoor plumbing), finding no need of headlight as the stars provided all I needed. The display overtook even my Colorado prejudice for clear viewing. What a stressful thought knowing that many have not a clue to what a starry night really is.

After a pancake breakfast, I sadly shook the hand of my father, and kissed the cheeks of mother and daughter and said goodbye. We headed for one last island with pre-Incan connection. As we walked from the boat dock to the town plaza, marveling at the cultivated terraces that climb up the mountain, or fall to the sea below (perspective) I overheard one of the group remarking how this island resembled much of the Greek coast. Guess I put Greece on my list.

This was a fantastic trip and reversal of those initial expectations. Not sure what this next week offers. Perhaps more tranquil for time to rest and cram some studytime. We shall see.