Un beun viaje – a good trip. This weekend had a three day expresso, 10-hours distant from Cusco via bus. First day was in Arequipa, second largest city in Peru. The central part I visited, of course, had its Plaza de Armas, as all do. And, yes, the large catholic cathedral overlooke he central fountain, gardens, pathways and bench.
I was there May Day and there were the marches, bands, speeches. There was even a small communist rally, but no images of Che were visible. After a walk around I toured the Monasteria de Santa Catalina. Dating back to the sixteenth century it once housed 450 people. It now has 30 nuns in residencia. Due to money needs it has recently been partially opened to tourism. The nuns resided in a part sheltered from tourist chatter, and fotos, including the “here I am at the fountain”,”here I am at the orange trees”.
The area is surrounded by volcanoes, three visible from my hotal window, none active at the moment. In addition, the area suffers from seismic activity. So, between the volcanoes and earthquakes, all city structures have suffered, including the monastery. The city itself is referred to as the “white city”, due to the fallen ash as well as use of volcanic rock for construction.
Inside as expected are small sized rooms, natural light, wood fired stoves, without chimney, thus the blackened ceilings. Gas has only recently been added for cooking. As for running water, I saw no evidence of it. Minimal furniture, a wood framed bed, thin mattress (no adjustable settings), simple chair, maybe a small desk, plus no ordainments except a cross and maybe an image of Jesus or the Virgen Mary.
But, the convent was, and is, a small city. I did not count the number of peaceful pation courtyards, with religious paintings “frescoed” on the walls of the patio corridors. There are several streets, rock-laid, crisscrossing through this pueblo of faith, sacrifice, and total devotion.
So many points of interest. The canal system that carries water throughtout. The outdoor lavanderia. The orange trees, including one that has yet to bear fruit. But, when it does it is expected to coincide with several predictions made by a former sister, now sainted due to other predictions which have been verified as to being fulfilled. And, in this place, is peace. Despite the solitude and separation, the architecture and construction, art, and gardens all bring focus to the purpose of the place. Sitting on any of the walls or benches in the complex, and just sitting in contemplation, brought as reapid a meditative calm as any I have had in the mountains.
Next day was to a pueblo Chivay where the night was spent before entry into the Colca Valley. The valley has been occupied for 2,000 years, preInca, who built these amazing terraced fields to catch snow melt from the surrounding volcanoes. Still in use, the patchwork of yellows, greens and sienas indicates presence of quinua, barley and maize. Papas were harvested last week. They lay below the mountains around and the Colca River runs by on its way to the depths of Colca Canyon, some say the deepest canyon in the world.
Above the Colca Canyon is a lookout, a mirador. Intended less for viewing the canyon, but more for sighting of the Andean Condor, standing four feet tall, with a wing span of ten feet. Shortly after arrival on this beautiful sunny and clear day was their appearance. Eventually ten in total were seen, adults and juveniles. They showed no fear, nor apparently no taste, for the spectators scattered on the rocks with their cameras. Easily playing with the thermals rising from the canyon below, the drifted above our heads and then away and then returned. The adults with rings of white were especially impressive. Aiming a camera at these creatures as they soared by required more skill and lens power than I have. Still, watching them was as if I were in a scene in one of those Lost World pictures, where prehistoric size was no surprise. It was well worth the time spent in a tour van.
Only one more planned experience. In two days I start hiking to Machu Pichu, a four-day hike in the mountains. And then back to the states.
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