Bariloche, April 6, 2009

This will likely not be completed before I start my first class here in Bariloche, toward the southern part of Argentina. But, I have some moments in front of a computer so will take advantage of it.

Bariloche, from what I have seen is beautiful. I say this unconvincingly as it has been rainy since my arrival on Saturday. However, I am pretty seguro in my statement. My initial impression brings a recollection, quite distant, of my visit to Europe in 1972, where part of the trip was in Lucerne, Switzerland. Even though the years passing have likely romantized somewhat mi memorias, still, there is a similarity. Though not commercial as Lucerne is, Bariloche lies amidst mountains, with a beautiful glacial lake beside. A few isolated glimpses showed newly fallen snow on the western slopes.

I suppose in hindsight I could have planned this thing better. Must be that northern exposure thing. I should have started my travels south, then progressed northward as the fall lengthens and the climate becomes more winter like. As it is I started in the north, got hot, and now as the daylight shrinkens and temperatures drop, I find my schedule is pushing me toward Antartica. My last stop, in three weeks, is at the southern end, when it should really be cold. Guess I won´t miss cold weather after all, having spent winter in Austin.

The town itself is geared toward the tourists, with minimal industrial efforts. Accordingly the primary street is lined with shopes of clothing, tiendas de "recuerdos" (gift shops), cafes, and many, I say many, chocolaterias. My goodness, I have never seen so much chocolate. I have only had one sample so far, excellente, and one cup of hot chocolate which is probably the best ever for me, as it was indeed made with true genuine chocolate. It is made here, not imported. So many choices, I am not quite sure how to describe, much less figure out how to transport sufficient samples back to he states. Anyone know the tariff or limits?

My living situation is going to be ineteresting, but sufficient. My new mother, widowed and una enfermeria (nurse), lives in a small sixth floor apartment, two bedrooms, one bath, small kitchen, small living area. She shares the domocile, the second bedroom, with a tiny 95 year-old amiga she has adopted. Two days has not produced any difficulty yet. My room, also small, is somewhat like a cruise ship room I suppose, though I have not done that thing. But, it has a single bed, small closet, a TV, a chair, and, a most magnificent view. My window looks to the west where I gaze upon a beatiful cathedral, not sure how old yet, with the lake and mountains behind. I am waiting for the clouds to clear to get that great photo. Otherwise my mother is friendly and helpful.

She is teaching me to eat "correctly" as well, so I guess I will learn more than spanish. She is teaching me to not switch utensils after I cut, so now I am learning to cut left handed and to "fork it up" with the right hand. I will find out how ambidexterous I am. She also likes to watch the Italian news channel so maybe I will pick up a few italian phrases to mix up with my spanish. And, as with my previous mother, she cooks well.

Today I wait for the beginning of my class. Arrived early, taking no chances on finding the place. It is not located in town as my previous schools have been. Rather it is in a upscale neighborhood a few miles out. Since, the directions wind about I have for the time being decided to experience public transportation, and leave the map skills to the driver. I can catch a bus about four blocks from my residence, and if I get off correctly, am about four blocks from the school. I say IF, as I must learn the system. It worked today only due to the niceness of a departing passenger. I realized I had passed my "mark", got off, and with the kind directions got back to where I should have been initially. As this time my classes are in the afternoon, not to my liking, but acceptable, I left at noon. School is out then, businesses are closing for the afternoon siesta, so the bus was packed, SRO. I was very impressed, however, Very much so as the students who had seats got up and offered them to older passengers as they ascended upon the bus. Yes, I was offered a seat, so laugh if you want. And, no, I did not accept it. I don´t use the bus much in the states, but I doubt (tengo duda) if I would have witnessed the same there. So far, my entire trip has provided witness to graciousness and respect.

My teachers, profesoras, are great. Older than the ones in Mendoza, which really means nada, but just a piece of information. As always, two classes, grammar then convesation. I am so far, the only spanish student in the afternoon. Not sure if there are others in the morning, but only that I am the only individual student. I think I will learn some new things now that my review and recovery period has passed. Shall see.

Finally weather has broken some three days after my arrival, and indeed the place is beautiful. After five months I can smell a pine tree again, and it is lovely. The area itself is not too different from Pagosa, except the variation in curvature and depth has been glacially caused. The lake Nahuel Huapi is 500 meters deep. You figure it out, but it is deep.

The town itself, to repeat, is geared toward the tourist. Thus, the town is more expensive, more crowded on the sidewalks, and not too many out of the way places to find isolation. However, I am very likely to branch out this weekend and rent a car. This is a stretch for me, but to get out and really see the landscape I must do so. Yes, excursions are available, but too much time is spent on the road, and little at the places you want to enjoy. It likely won´t be any less expensive. This will be a release from my guarded protections in South America. Getting on the road, unsure of roadsigns, conditions, directions and what to do in an emergency to a degree has added some anxiety. But, despite the risk, the reward could be great. My mother and profesoras have given me support and encouragement, which I need at this point. So, friends if you don´t see something in a week then assume I did indeed fall off the end of the earth.

I am getting weary of this solo travel as well. Mixing in as an extranjero is tiring and much work. Other than my mothers and profesoras in both Mendoza and here in Bariloche it has been quite an individual thing. Have not cratered yet, but I am only now halfway complete on this South American adventure and beginning to yearn for the contact of friends and my own home. But, on the other hand, every day I use and hear the language is a tiny improvement. One thing missed is just plain old routine. I enjoy routine, the repetition. But, here I have to make some changes. Since my classes are in the afternoon, for one thing that is a big change for me. So, how long it takes me to adapt to this new typw schedule may be influential in my satisfaction. For now, it is okay, just different. I also would like a real cup of coffee in the morning. Instant coffee is all I have had here from my mothers. It works for them, but not real well for me.

Well, lets see if I can load a few photos on this old machine I am sitting at.

Guess its true that time really does slip away
You only lose the chances you don´t take
If you want to feel the wind
You gotta take a ride
You better dream big
If you want to touch the sky
Can´t be scared to risk it all
You´ll never gonna fly
If you´re afraid to fall.