Normally I ramble in sequential order, but this time I will begin with the best. All has been good, but this last Argentinian adventure is leaving me a most positive memory of my visit. As long as I can return the remaining 6,000 plus miles over a 24-hour period, without being quarantined for pig flu, then this last memory will be a keeper.
Started the day with a nice long warm shower and real coffee, both of which were lacking with my familes (about the only negative), got on the bus about 8:00 for the three hour ride to El Chalten, across the barren steppe that foots the Andes. Sunrise is about 9:00, so thanks to my Ipod, I was content. The bus was comfortable, clean and not crowded, nothing like my previous South American bus experiences. The sun rose on schedule, casting beautiful lines above the blue purple shadowed landscape below. If you want true wide open spaces, this is the place to come. Other than the isolated estancias, that lie miles apart (original land grants were 20,000 hectares), there is no human evidence here.
Along the way we make a brief rest stop at a converted estancia, a place where Butch and Sundance made presence before a nearby bank robbery put them on the run, before their death near the Bolivia border. Onward. If you have crossed the desert in the northwest corner of New Mexico, and have viewed at great distance the strange rise above the level landscape, which turns out to be Shiprock, then you have an impression of what I received.
As we approached west, closing in on snowcapped peaks, appeared Mount Fitz Roy. What a sight. I have been rewarded with views and presence at numerous peaks in Colorado, the Sisters of Wyoming, Half Dome in Yosemite, Devils Tower of exterrestial fame, and even the Matterhorn, Chimborazo, and now Aconcaqua. Nothing prepared me for Fitz Roy. The almost 90 degree vertical rock faces, like the bottom row of teeth of some ancient menacing meat-eater, stops you immediately. Soon our bus stops at El Chalten, a town of 500 servicing thousands of hikers and climbers in the summer. But, this is the tailend of fall. Graced by one of the few windless days over the past month, plus full sun, I found one of the trails for an estimated 3-hour hike before I would have to turn and retreat. During my slow steady climb, I continued to view the glacial river valley below to my right, when a large dark shadow quietly passed over me. Instinctly I looked up to catch the spread winged flight of a condor, no more than 40-feet above me, that had left the rock cliffs to my left. What good luck.
It continued as I watched it glide down the valley, out of sight. With a sigh and deep breath, I began again. A little more than an hour later, briefly talking to a native and his Russian wife (they use english to talk to each other), I take a brief rise to a rock mirador (overlook). You could do nothing but freeze in awe at the sight, almost as if you could reach out and touch using some kind of 3-D visual aide. Total amazement at this creation. What a blessing to have seen this. A few more moments in stillness, then continued on for another hour or so, interspersed with more stops and breathless moments. Eventually the sad state of affairs of bus schedules turned me around and I retreated. When I eventually sided next to the cliffs of the previous condor sighting, I stopped to look. There far above the cliffs were now three, circling at distant heights.
Down below back in town it did not take long to inspect the town. Returned to the bus stop for beer and papas fritas, and back on the bus. It was now dark and the lonely ride across the Argentina Patagonia steppe. No traffic on this road, which is maybe a good thing, since I have found that Argentina has the highest vehicular mortality rate in the world. (Ecuador is number three, so who is numero dos?) But, this day, no problemas, no eventos, nada. ¡Que un dia magnifica y increible!
Now to retrace my steps. The previous two days were about glacial watching. In Parque Nacioñal Los Glaciares, there are over 350 glaciers. On my two days I saw maybe 20, via bus and boat. Truly beautiful and amazing, as to both the visual and the geologic. For those doubtful as to human impact to our earth, note that these glaciars have retreated in the last 20 years the same distance as in the previous 20,000 years.
At one of these, Perirto Moreno, I witnessed some cracking and falling from the advancing wall, at a rate of two meters per day. The cracking sound from just small chunks would knock you out of your LaZ Boy. Unfortunately, the crack is heard after the fall, so getting a photo shot is near impossible. However, the park is working with university scientists to refine an advanced warning system, similar to earthquake detection. Strategically placed sensors would detect the proximate location of impending collapse, send a message to several sites on the opposing catwalk views above the river, which would then send laser light points on the wall soon to collapse. Their hope is to perfect a 30-second advanced warning for photographers and other onlookers.
The shapes and colors appear as abstract ice sculptures as they drift down Lago Argentino, away from the glacial walls. All degrees of blue shades. The degree of density from previous compression determines the amount of air in the ice, which accordingly determines the spectrum changes from deep blue to white. Again, just amazing the beauty that is found on this earth, in this country.
Much more to share. But, this is the last posting for Argentina 2009. Hoping departure and return is uneventful. Then I can evaluate my six weeks here with a five star rating. My spanish is still crude, needs much work, and more time. As for Argentina, beautiful place, beautiful people, maybe the nicest I have ever encountered anywhere. Somewhat surprising reflective of the brutal changes made since the 60s, to have such smiles, and to have protected much of what has been a gift to them, but all are things of which I shall remember. Muchisimas gracias por todo.
And friend and family, I will be back this weekend for lecture and slide show to any who wish to inquire. Ciao.
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