This week
was not much for serious exploration. It provided a three day weekend, but I
delayed in travel plans and thus stranded myself. However, I did take time to
further to further identify parts of Santiago. So now is a good time to
document my impression of the city to date.
Santiago is
perhaps the cleanest city I have yet seen in all of S.A. Litter cans are
visible, kept empty, and are actually used by the citizens. That alone distinguishes
it. But, like all others is too has the primary plaza, Plaza de Armas, with
National Cathedra on one side, government buildings on other. There are the
benches full of people, the fountain, the children and attentive parents and
the heroic statues. Of course there are the dogs, reported by one source as one
for every five Chilenos. They bother no one.
The city
has a mix of both the colonial and modern. Chile has one of the world´s
strongest economies, an unemployment rate below five percent. The tallest building
in S.A. is Consteneda Central, under construction, but partially occupied
during construction. Of interest is the preservation of one of the cracks from
the strongest earthquake ever recorded. A drill has penetrated deep into the
earth´s crust, and with a special scope, allows the viewer to actually view the
glowing molten activity lying miles beneath your feet.
Somewhere
around six million live in the city itself. Departamentos are everywhere,
several on each block, both owned and rented, most rising 15-25 stories tall.
Most residential areas are tree lined with gardened entries. My street is quite
pretty, as the sycamores are dropping their leaves as we go further into the
fall.
On my more
distant journeys from home, I take the metro. It is modern, clean, and rapid. The
nearest stop is not too close, but the walk to and from is enjoyable. Today, as
I write, is Easter Sunday, and I took the metro to the Cementario General. This
had to be the largest cemetery I have ever seen, immense. Different parts are
reserved for different faiths and different income layers. Today, whether due
to Easter I can only assume, but almost all graves, tombs, have been decorated
by fresh or false flowers, family photos, balloons, pinwheels, cartoon
stickers, plastic toys, stuffed animals, Christmas decorations, even CDs. What
thoughts and memories motivate the selection is speculative. Nonetheless the
place was crowded as family members carefully pruned, cleaned and arranged the
setting of their lost loves. There is nothing similar to my observation of the
latin commitment to family.
Parks are
everywhere and range in size and function. One of the largest, Cerro San
Cristobal, overlooks the city, with large statue of Virgen de Guadalupe, her
outstretched arms visible all over. It is a good climb to the top, unless you
cheat and take the funicular (I did not cheat). There is also a good size zoo,
a swimming pool and other vistas. Other parks are less endowed, but never too
far away. I have yet to find my sanctuary. The central plaza is too busy and
too distant. It may be that my house, an apartment with a tiny garden, will be
the place.
I am
beginning to miss my exercise regime, my paints, my guitar, but I am a long
time away from reunion. Every week is a new one. No real complaints to date. My
family is again enjoyable, somewhat different in their history than others. As
I understand it, they left Venezuela as Chavez grew in strength and stupidity.
It appears they left behind a sufficient lifestyle, and now are working hard at
recovering some of that slip. I wish and hope for that to happen. They treat me
well.
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