Monday, April 15, 2013

Santiago, Lucia y Plaza de Armas, 15 avril


Santiago, 15 avril, 2013

This week marks the halfway point of my journey and I remained in Santiago focused on filling holes in my collection of photos and memories.  The first steps were to Cerra Santa Lucia (cerra=hill). This is a central site where Pedro de Valdivia, the father of Chile, planted the beginning of Spanish presence. He and a handful of others, plus his lover, Inez, left Peru for the purpose of spreading spanish influence and perhaps finding gold as well. However, the Mapuche indigenous population, made for a difficult conquest, fiercely challenging the spanish for 300 years. Despite eventual success, it was a cruel endeavor. Pedro himself, after gaining appointment as gobernador, received an ugly end as retribution for the cruel methods used to dominate the Mapuche. He was captured in a final battle, the only survivor, and over a three-day period his skin was ´´removed´´, cooked and eaten before him. When it was obvious he would not last much longer, he was forced to swallow molten gold, a fitting symbolic reward for the spanish lust for gold. The site in Santiago rises fairly high above the central section of the city. From the tower top of a castle constructed in the 1800´s you get great vistas of the city around.

From there I casually returned to the Plaza de Armas, where I was easily entertained for the remainder of the afternoon. Several times I headed for the metro, only to discover another interest which caught my attention and my time. I have included the Plaza in previous blog discussion, so I hope not to repeat myself. Extending out from the plaza itself are pedestrian only malls occupied with various eating spots and small shops. The sunny Saturday collected large numbers to enjoy the day. I easily encountered a dozen street performers, each trying to attract a few monedas for their performance. Musicians included an opera singer, a 3-piece guitar group playing BB King, a horn ensemble, many different drum groups beat their rhythms, including more than one that tied their drums to their backs and beat with long flexible sticks while they danced and spun around. Impressive. One singer was selling her CDs after each song, and people danced salsa when she did sing. Jugglers, clowns, gymnists and colorful mimes centered among the interested viewers.

My favorite was a puppet show that enchanted the children standing in front. Screams of surprise, scare and joy responded to each appearance of the puppets. Alas, there was no Kermit or Miss Piggy. But, there is nothing comparable to the fixation of wonder or laugh on a child’s face. Absolutamente nada.

From there you cold wander and listen to the sidewalk preachers or watch the artists painting portraits, or the vendors selling candy and ice cream, balloons and toys.  Or, you could wait your turn to play chess at one of the 20 or so tables set-up under the gazeba. But, whether by custom or rule, no women. And, as noted, all the malls were set with tables where you could people watch while you enjoyed a glass of wine, a beer or a coffee. It was indeed a good day to walk in the campo.

There is nothing as dark as night
But nothing so strong as light
And here is the choice
Let it burn out or bright
In a world where the fear and force
Have buried the silent source
Can you deny the need for a light like yours
No fast pace, no jaded attitude
Can erase all of the good you do.

If someone has left his wrath
On everything in his path
Taking the wealth and leaving his trash behind
Will you be peace or can you at last decide there is noone to fight
We are the same inside, so go on and get some rest
There’s many more miles and tests
All about love
What if it comes to be all that we have left
No dark place, no debt, and no abuse
Can erase all of the good you do. (C. Kane)





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