Santiago, 15 avril,
2013
This week marks the
halfway point of my journey and I remained in Santiago focused on filling holes
in my collection of photos and memories.
The first steps were to Cerra Santa Lucia (cerra=hill). This is a
central site where Pedro de Valdivia, the father of Chile, planted the
beginning of Spanish presence. He and a handful of others, plus his lover,
Inez, left Peru for the purpose of spreading spanish influence and perhaps
finding gold as well. However, the Mapuche indigenous population, made for a
difficult conquest, fiercely challenging the spanish for 300 years. Despite
eventual success, it was a cruel endeavor. Pedro himself, after gaining
appointment as gobernador, received an ugly end as retribution for the cruel methods
used to dominate the Mapuche. He was captured in a final battle, the only
survivor, and over a three-day period his skin was ´´removed´´, cooked and
eaten before him. When it was obvious he would not last much longer, he was
forced to swallow molten gold, a fitting symbolic reward for the spanish lust
for gold. The site in Santiago rises fairly high above the central section of
the city. From the tower top of a castle constructed in the 1800´s you get
great vistas of the city around.
From there I casually
returned to the Plaza de Armas, where I was easily entertained for the
remainder of the afternoon. Several times I headed for the metro, only to
discover another interest which caught my attention and my time. I have
included the Plaza in previous blog discussion, so I hope not to repeat myself.
Extending out from the plaza itself are pedestrian only malls occupied with
various eating spots and small shops. The sunny Saturday collected large
numbers to enjoy the day. I easily encountered a dozen street performers, each
trying to attract a few monedas for their performance. Musicians included an
opera singer, a 3-piece guitar group playing BB King, a horn ensemble, many
different drum groups beat their rhythms, including more than one that tied
their drums to their backs and beat with long flexible sticks while they danced
and spun around. Impressive. One singer was selling her CDs after each song,
and people danced salsa when she did sing. Jugglers, clowns, gymnists and
colorful mimes centered among the interested viewers.
My favorite was a
puppet show that enchanted the children standing in front. Screams of surprise,
scare and joy responded to each appearance of the puppets. Alas, there was no
Kermit or Miss Piggy. But, there is nothing comparable to the fixation of
wonder or laugh on a child’s face. Absolutamente nada.
From there you cold
wander and listen to the sidewalk preachers or watch the artists painting
portraits, or the vendors selling candy and ice cream, balloons and toys. Or, you could wait your turn to play chess at
one of the 20 or so tables set-up under the gazeba. But, whether by custom or
rule, no women. And, as noted, all the malls were set with tables where you
could people watch while you enjoyed a glass of wine, a beer or a coffee. It
was indeed a good day to walk in the campo.
There is nothing as
dark as night
But nothing so strong
as light
And here is the choice
Let it burn out or
bright
In a world where the
fear and force
Have buried the silent
source
Can you deny the need for
a light like yours
No fast pace, no jaded
attitude
Can erase all of the
good you do.
If someone has left
his wrath
On everything in his
path
Taking the wealth and
leaving his trash behind
Will you be peace or
can you at last decide there is noone to fight
We are the same
inside, so go on and get some rest
There’s many more
miles and tests
All about love
What if it comes to be
all that we have left
No dark place, no
debt, and no abuse
Can erase all of the
good you do. (C. Kane)
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