cajas 03/30/08

This weekend brought the enjoyment of hiking in the Cajas Nacional Park The park is near Cuenca in the mountains to the east of the city. It is administered differently than others due to its importance to Cuenca. Its watershed accounts for 70 percent of Cuenca’s water supply. As a result, management of the park, despite its “National” classification is the responsibility of Cuenca. As best I can tell, from discussion with the guide, is that this is a good thing. Cuenca has more rangers and personnel assigned to this park, even though others may be larger in area.

Departure was in the morning and we drove up from and out of the city into the surrounding mountains. The further from the city, the more the area turned to agriculture and I could see clearly for the first time, the mountains which have almost always been hidden by clouds. People were already walking the roads, or waiting for one of the many buses that travel the roads. Not sure the percentages, but many, if not most, of the people rely on public transportation it appears. I was feeling good as we moved into el campo, the country.

One of the first spots pointed to by the guide, Juan, was a pilgrimage site outside the park. Story told, is that a 16 year-old had a visit from the Virgin Mary, and was given instruction on where a spot was to be selected for prayer and worship. This was the spot selected. Soon thereafter, literally hundreds of thousands of people came to the site. Miracles occurred. Prior to that time, the road here was minimal, and unpaved. Due to the enormity of the attraction, the road to Cajas was constructed and paved. Busloads of people continue their journey to the site, despite the vision not being officially recognized by the catholic hierarchy.

Soon thereafter we made entry, paid our fee, and proceeded to the Continental Divide, separating flow of waters in the Cajas to the Pacific or Atlantic. If you check out a map of South America, and carefully look, it will be noted that the straight line from here to the Pacific is less than 100 miles, and the distance to the Atlantic is the furthest of all points in South America. Waters to the east flow into the Amazon. While here saw a few wild llama, then we headed back down to begin a hike.

There are hundreds of lakes that step stone down the valleys, each collecting rainwater, spilling down into another below, as they escalade to one of the many rivers fed by the rains here. We parked above a larger one and begin our slosh. Overcast and threatening as near most all my days here in the wettest season of the year, the ground was saturated. The area is thoroughly green, and where mud was not, was groundcover, perhaps lichen, that was like sponge when walking. Juan pointed out numerous plant species, many flowering. Very much, in a sense, like the Colorado mountains, differing of course for the most part by species, plus the completeness of plant coverage. There was even a species of lupine, similar to those found in Texas and Colorado. In the distance, to the south we could see parts of the Incan trail, once used by those people for trade routes between the coastal and sierra areas.

The views from our position when the clouds occasionally gave opportunity were beautiful as expected. Unlike the Rockies, for the most part, the mountains are not rugged, rather rounded, somewhat smooth. At our altitude forest presence was minimal. Some yes, but not thoroughly covered. But, there were some that are referenced as hanging forests, due to their appearance to “hang” from the sides of the mountains. About half way around the lake we entered one. Bosque de Polylepis, the trees are also called “paper trees”. Not due to their use for making paper, but instead, due to their bark, which peels off in layers almost as thin as paper. More inspiring to me was their rich red color and the sheer density of the forest. Each trunk twists around others or rock to seek the richness and warmth of the sun, for underneath the canopy there is no sun. My camera switched to flash mode, as an indication of the darkness. I easily concluded this was the home of elves and trolls and others. Could have been the home of hobits even. We were fortunate. Though a light rain came and went, for the most part, we avoided encounters with cloud cover and fog. There is an American student in the area who to date has been missing for six days. Apparently was slightly behind the group, a cloud came upon them, then when cover cleared, he was gone.

But, the trolls did not get us, and we reentered open space, made our way back down and around the lake and returned to the van. Next spot was for lunch at Los Dos Chorreas, two waterfalls. I had grilled trucha, i.e. trout, which was wonderful. The Ecuador favorite, Pilsner cerveza, was a nice addition.

Our final excursion was lower down, also near a lake used for bird watching. We walked again through tree cover, but not quite as dense as the previous bosque. I spied one beautifully colored bird, but was slow with the camera. Not a toucan, but equally large and covered with color. In the area one often receives visit of “ghost clouds”. These are puffs of small clouds, that magically and instantly appear, move quietly across, then as quickly disappear. Sure enough, saw a couple. Don’t know the scientific explanation, but assume some temperature and humidity contrasts between the plants and the air. The first I saw looked as if a plant was exhaling its warm breath into a cold autumn air. Poof, then gone.

The lake was beautiful, tranquil. We were too late in the afternoon to benefit from bird sightings, but we did get descriptive explanation of the difference between alpaca, llama, and the crossbreed from several grazing in a field next to the lake. Advice is to get alpaca wool as first choice. Also, inspected the ruins of an old abandoned brewery, which must have been one heck of an operation in its time, by the size and number of buildings. Water source would be from the pure waters of the Caja. I wonder how Coors would stack up in comparison.

Returned safely to the van, awarded by the beauty of Cajas and new discoveries. Got back to Cuenca, fingers often gripped tightly, due to Juan’s driving efforts to pass slower vehicles on the mountain road. But, otherwise a good day indeed.